Food, drink, travel and everything inbetween.

Month: June 2018

It just gets prettier and prettier!

WEEK 3: Saint Julien du Sault to Hirtzbach – 286 miles

Saturday 23rd June 2018 Saint Julien du Sault – Chablis. 33 miles

Another beautiful sunny day today. Before we leave we take another walk into the town and buy some pastries for breakfast. We do like it here, it’s such a lovely place and popular as the aire is full. We would like to stay another night but we want to move on east to Chablis where we are going to another campsite that we visited on our trial motorhome outing last year. Camping du Serein is in the town of Ville du Chablis.

It’s another nice short picturesque drive to the campsite but once there we quickly get settled in after a rather lengthy time, as usual, deciding where to pitch.

We will get the hang of this and it will get quicker picking the right spot. We take a walk into the town which has a rather attractive entrance to it with two old but well looked after turrets. We buy some unusual Chablis that has been aged in acacia barrels.

We buy some fruit and veg and head back for a fantastic dinner that ends with some rather nice cheese with fresh figs.


Sunday 24th June 2018 Saint Chablis – Lezinnes. 23 miles

It’s warm but cloudy this morning, warm enough to have breakfast outside. It’s a nice morning. We get cleaned up, empty the grey water tank, and fill up with fresh water. We are also a bit low on diesel so on the way we need to fill up.

Today is the shortest drive so far. We arrive at the campsite which is immaculate, a beautiful place.

There is supposed to be good cycling here so we get the bikes down off the back of Jess and do a good 11 mile round trip bike ride. Not bad.

It was a great day for cycling and the day has gone by so fast. We get back to Jess and shower and have dinner. We manage a short walk into the town where we get a fuss of a few cats that are wandering around the town. A very nice day.


Monday 25th June 2018 Lezinnes – Vouecourt. 82 miles

We are up early. By all accounts there is supposed to be a heatwave, but it hasn’t reached us yet, it’s still very pleasant though. We have breakfast while we watch some campers who are camping using a bike. Not for us that. Cycling all day, loaded up with panniers full of your stuff that you take out every day and put away every day. Nah! Not for us that.

Today we are going to the beautiful river side village of Vouecourt, which is back in the champagne region. The campsite is right on the river which are very popular spots, but we are able to bag a pitch right on the river bank.

It’s absolutely gorgeous. Right on the river with a view of a small, very old bridge and a charming little church. We like it here so much that we book for two nights. It has a cycle track that runs along the river and the canal, so we will get some exercise while we are here. We get settled in and just relax by the river watching the ducks with a chilled glass of champagne. We hate Mondays.

Dinner is a homemade paella, which Hayley is now an expert at. It’s delicious and we have such a fantastic view to enjoy it. Lovely.

We have been out now for almost two weeks and everyone that we have met in France has been very nice and friendly.


Tuesday 26th June 2018 Vouecourt. Day 2

We had a good sleep last night, very good. It’s quite hot today. We have a relaxing breakfast of many things, eggs, hash browns, cheese and jams, quite a feed. By the time we have breakfast, watch the ducks and clean up it is now 11:00am and by now its getting quite hot, but we are determined to go for a bike ride. But first let’s have a look at that church.

We get the bike off the back and prepared and set off along the canal. It’s great for cycling here, flat and easy, with the odd lock every now and then. We arrive at the small village of Buxiemes. Not much here, just a pretty church and a bar. Life! We pop in and have coffee and sit in the shade of a lovely flowery courtyard. Very nice. Onwards.

After continuing for a little while longer we turn around and make our way back to our van. In total we have cycled 17 miles. Not bad in the hot sun, and it is hot.

Back at our mobile house, we take advantage of the free washing facilities and catch up on the laundry.

Dinner is outside by the river and to accompany it we open our bottle 2008 vintage Foureur champagne, the place with the little tight courtyard and Excalibur the black cat. A great day today.

Cheers…!

Wednesday 27th June 2018 Vouecourt – Contrexeville. 73 miles

It’s 9am and it’s already hot, very hot while we have our boiled eggs outside with the ducks. We sit in silence for the last few minutes as we take in this lovely spot, the view, the smell, the light, it’s brilliant.

Today we are going to Contrexeville and Hayley is driving. It’s a challenge, very narrow, tight, windy roads. Steep, hilly towns and cyclists to avoid, but Hayley just takes it in her stride and gets us safely to the campsite in Contrexeville. On the way we give Jess a wash. She needs it, she’s dirty and the heat is making the dirt stick.

We arrive at the campsite and we get a lovely friendly welcome. We are also getting better at picking pitches at the sites and settle for a nice grassy, shady spot.

Contrexeville is famous for water and the water plant here has a direct pipeline to Vittel nearby. We find a LeClerc store, we need water tap adapter, Hayley needs a new mini jack cable and we also need some toilet chemicals. We get everything at this store and at a good price.

We didn’t sleep very well last night, it’s hot. So bed early tonight. There are chickens roaming around the campsite. They are quite popular here, roaming chickens.

It’s getting windy here tonight, so dinner indoors tonight.


Thursday 28th June 2018 Contrexeville – La Thillot. 40 miles

A bad night sleep last night, not sure why. It’s still hot. We need to do some shopping so we get going and spend 45 euros at the local LeClerc supermarket, we also take the opportunity to fill up with diesel.

Its a windy day today and it’s Dels turn at the wheel. He’s fighting against the wind as Jess gets buffeted about. An hour and half later we arrive at the campsite. It’s now 1:30pm but we have to wait half an hour, French lunch time.

We are are aware that the scenery has changed now. The view looks very Alpine-esque with pine trees, chalets and lots of hills.


Friday 29th June 2018 La Thillot – Hirtzbach. 43 miles

We are heading eastwards hence the scenery change, we are heading towards Basel, trying to get there for tomorrow. We are in the Alsace area which has changed hands 5 times between the French and the Germans since 1600 so the buildings and the names of the towns are starting to sound a bit Germanic.

We are heading towards a town called Hirtzbach, very german sounding. It’s a free aire that was once a railway station. The old railway lines have been converted to cycle ways. Time for some exercise!

Once settled in to the aire we get the bikes out and cycle to the next town called Hirsingue. Hayley spots a nice little restaurant which has stopped serving for the day but we book a table for two for tonight. We cycle back and just relax on Jess. It’s hot again. As the afternoon goes on we find that we are become swamped by cars. Every carpark and street space is filling up. Whats going on?

Time for dinner, it’s still quite warm. We set off and have a nice cycle back to the town and the restaurant that we have booked into for dinner. The restaurant is called “Le petit grain de sel“, The little grain of salt. The bike ride is lovely in the early evening sun.

Dinner out tonight was wonderful. Vegetable tart/tomato burger for starters, followed by lamb/pepper steak, ending with a rather delicious, and very alcoholic cherry ice cream with lots of kirsch. Wonderful.

We manage to cycle back in the sunset, a lovely place to stay and a lovely and dinner!

France. We’ve been waiting for this.

WEEK 2: Popperinge, Belgium to Saint-Julien-du-salt, France – 315 miles

Saturday 16th June 2018 Poperinge, Belgium – Mecquinies, France. 109 miles

After a good night’s sleep we get up to an inclement and cloudy day. Yesterday we planned out some of the trip, so today we are going back into France to a place called Mecquinies and to a France Passion stop. France Passion is simply a farm or vineyard where you can stay free of charge. You don’t have to but it’s a good idea, to buy something from the host you are staying with, so a bottle or two of wine, some cheese, whatever the host specialises in really. Today we are going to a goat farm called Chevrerie de Sabotiers. They specialise in goats and goat’s cheese. Nice.

Best beer in the world?

First stop, beer shopping. We have timed it wrong again and have to wait an hour. We kill time in the coffee shop while the queue forms to buy the beer.

It really is popular. We buy two boxes of their strongest beer, Westvleteren 12 for 46 euros. Pleased with our purchase we go back to the van and start the 109 mile drive to the goat farm, but first we have to stop at an Auchan, a fabulous French supermarket.

On route we did try and see if we could get into anther France Passion stop, a chicken farm, but we couldn’t raise anyone so we move on to the goat farm. We find the farm after overshooting the entrance. It has a very narrow, long entrance so Del has to reverse slowly all the way to our pitch after being greeted by the very friendly farmer.

Like our last stop this is a rustic working farm. There is just stuff scattered all over the place, fam machinery, bales of hay and building with equipment and animals in them.

There is a small town near by, no shops but we still go for a walk. It’s lovely here out in the French countryside. We go back to Jess and sit outside with some of our recently purchased beer and plan some more stops for our trip, always with a view of the goats of course.

It’s a lovely farm. There is a barn where some goats are being milked, so we watch them for a while and fuss them, they are so friendly, clearly used to having people coming to see them every day. We go and see the pigs in another barn who are just as cute, if a little dirty. Thats pigs for you.

We meet the farm collie, ‘Mis’, a lovely friendly dog who comes with us and the farmer’s wife to buy some cheese.

Tarragon Cheese

Hayley buys some tarragon cheese which we have with a veggie burger for dinner. Delicious.

We like it here. The farmer is nice and welcoming, with lovely animals and great cheese. We should sleep well tonight.


Sunday 17th June 2018 Mecquinies – Rozay – sur – serre. 149 miles

Today will be another first. Today we are going to stop in what is called an ‘aire‘. These are normally free overnight motorhome stops. The French are really good at this motorhome thing. The free stops sometimes have water and discharge facilities all for free! Today we are going to try one in the town of Rozay – sur – serre to an aire called ‘Aire de Camping car des portes de la Thierache‘. It’s a bit of a long drive today, 159 miles.

After the 1-and-a-half-hour drive, we arrive at this beautifully landscaped aire. There are already a couple of vans here, which we like. It’s good to have company. There is a 4km walk here so we get our walking boots on and go for a good long walk. The walk is not well signposted but is great, lovely countryside here.

Sadly the water here is not working, no matter. We sit at one of the picnic tables with a beer and plan tomorrow’s trip, it’s a lovely sunny afternoon. Dinner tonight was pasta and some of yesterday’s cheese. Just before dinner, we are joined by a flock of hens who just appear and started pecking and wittering their way around the visiting vans. Sweet.

There is a petanque (bowls on a gravel patch) space here, and we have some balls that we had from our boating days, so of course we have a game in the setting sun. Hayley wins…

And the winner is…? Check out the slippers

Monday 18th June 2018 Rozay – sur – serre – Ambonnay. 152 miles (via Chamery)

We slept well last night. As we are waking up we can hear the chickens warbling away outside the van.

It’s grey today but we attempt to have breakfast outside with the hens. It’s trying to rain. We use the limited facilities of the aire and once done we set off for some diesel. Jess needs a drink too!

Today we are stopping at another aire in the town of Ambonney, northeast of Paris, southeast of Reims. There is a town near our destination called “Bouzy” pronounced ‘boozy’. Most apt. We are going to Ambonney via the town of Chamery.

We stopped at the aire in Chamery and after a spot of lunch we take a walk in the town which is very pretty with a church and the town is full of flowers which sits in a valley of premier cru champagne vineyards.

Beautiful. Being Monday everything is closed, we are the only ones, apart from a cat, walking around. The only other sign of life is a small courtyard with some goats and chickens.

Welcome…

After a bit of research, Hayley finds a France Passion, a champagne house called Champagne Dominique Foureur.

After a short discussion we make our way to Ambonnay which is only half an hour away. The champagne house is located in a very tight small courtyard which is very very old, it’s so pretty and welcoming. We have to get the van into the courtyard.

We are welcomed by the host, who is very friendly and forgiving to Hayley for her good attempt at French… We get the last spot behind a german couple in a van who are regulars here.

Del is at the wheel, with Hayley keeping a good eye as Del slowly and carefully reverses Jess into and through the twisty and tight entrance and into the courtyard to our spot.

Very tricky but he does it and as a prize, we are welcomed by the owner’s black cat, Excalibur who is really friendly and hangs around with us as we give him lots of fuss and attention.

No time is wasted as we join a tasting session and soon we are savouring 6 local champagnes. The lady host is very kind to us and speaks perfect English as she shows us around.

We buy two bottles of blancs de blancs, a 2008 vintage and we enjoy a glass of two with a fabulous dinner in our parking spot.

We are joined again later by Excalibur for another couple of minutes of fussing before he leaves us. A great day today. Very enjoyable. We loved it.

Our first animal visitor.

Tuesday 19th June 2018 Ambonnay – Verneuil. 40 miles

A great night stay. We are continuing the champagne theme today and we are are going to a champagne house in the small town of Verneuil which is only a short drive. So we take our time this morning and get some lovely croissants for breakfast. We have wound our way out of the tight space dodging the cats and dogs roaming around in the courtyard. We liked it here – nice champagne and we also bought two tiny Champagne glasses. Hopefully, they will make it home without getting broken.

A first wash for Jess

The drive is very picturesque, beautiful. First though we need a wash, or rather Jess does. Her first wash.

The countryside is fabulous. We arrive at Champagne Jacques Copin where they have free overnight parking with all the facilities. You can stay for free but it is customary to buy something, even if it’s just a bottle of the cheapest champers. We are welcomed by a very charming chap who shows us where we can park for the night. We get settled in, plug in some power and very soon we are having a show around.

After an hour or so we go back to the shop and buy two bottles of their traditional brut. Very tasty. It’s been a bit cloudy for most of the day but by dinner time the weather has improved. We have accumulated a pile of red peppers so Hayley knocks up some quesadillas which we enjoy with a glass of the local champagne.

Tonight we watch the BBCs Absolutely Fabulous episode where characters Edina and Patsy go to the champagne region. You can imagine how that went. Very very funny.


Wednesday 20th June 2018 Ambonnay – Dormans. 30 miles

Which way…?

After the last two days of champagne tasting and drinking, we decide to have a day free of alcohol and to find a nice campsite where we can spread ourselves out a little. Today we are going to a municipal campsite in the town of Dormans which is just a short drive away.

We have a lovely breakfast outside in the warm morning sunshine in the grounds of the Copin champagne house with a view of the vineyards. It’s nice here. It’s getting warmer. It’s 10:00 so we set off. Today we need to do some shopping. There is a height restriction at the supermarket so poor Hayley has to carry the shopping up the hill in the heat. Whew! Poor thing. It’s also time to do some laundry, the campsite at Dormans has facilities so we will probably get that done today. It’s hot though.

We really look the part now

The campsite in the town of Dormans is very nice and the guy who welcomes us in is very friendly. We buy some laundry tokens, washing is building up. After a few changes of mind we settle into a nice shady pitch, settle and spread ourselves out.

We take turns doing the laundry and it all drying on the line on our pitch. We are now proper campers! We like it here very much so we decide to stay for another night. Lunch was outside of cheese and apples with a glass of white wine spritzer. Going well the alcohol reduction. It’s so nice though in the shade sitting lazing about in our chairs under the awning. Smashing.

The peace and tranquillity is soon broken by a bunch of guys, probably 10 of them taking turns shaving each other’s hair with clippers. The noise, whilst not loud, is annoying, but really annoying! After about an hour and a half, but what felt more like 7 hours they stop… Ah, peace again at last.


Thursday 21st June 2018 Dormans – Montmirail. 22 miles

The weather is quite different from yesterday. It’s cloudy, windy and raining. At least we have clean fresh laundry. Our plan was to cycle along the river Marne and to have a BBQ, but it looks like now that won’t happen, not here anyway, so we decide to move on. Hayley finds us another champagne house to stay and visit and it’s only 22 miles away.

Again there is free overnight parking at Champagne Champion in the small town of Montmirail. It’s a very small town, rustic and the surrounding countryside is amazing. Miles of rolling hills are just vineyards for as far as the eye can see. It’s quite a view. This family run champagne house produces 20,000 bottles a year.

Tucked in the corner for the night

We are welcomed by a lovely elderly lady, with a limp, who directs us to the back of the house to park up. There is only enough space for three vans but the view is absolutely stunning. It has been Hayley’s wish to sit in her van and sip the champagne from vineyard that we are staying at, well today she gets her wish. We are right next to the vineyard, we can’t get any closer.

For 14 euros we buy a bottle of the local pinot noir champagne and we can stay for free. We need some exercise so we get the bikes down from the back of Jess and cycle around the beautiful countryside. The sun is shining and it’s just lovely. We have a quick look at the deserted town of Montmirail.

Back at the van we have a fantastic dinner and crack open the champagne that we bought and gently sip it as we look at the vineyards where the grapes came from that are right next to our van. Splendid. It’s the longest day today as we sip our champagne in the evening sunshine while wandering around the vineyard. It doesn’t get better than this.

The toilet’s getting full. Not great if you are drinking champagne, Where is that lady? Where can we empty it?


Friday 22nd June 2018 Montmirail – St. Julien du Sault. 73 miles

We wake up today to a beautiful day today, a clear blue sky and sunshine. We are moving out of the champagne region today, for a while. We stock up with more of the local champagne, 4 bottles of reserve and 2 traditional. The lady here is very nice and we say goodbye to her and her lovely dog, June.

Today is a special day, well it’s special to us. Today we are driving to the small town of St. Julian du Sault. It’s one of those free French aires. Our first experience of a motorhome was here in France when we hired a motorhome. It was that trip that we decided to change from having a boat to having a motorhome and it was this stop that we stopped at first, so we have a special fondness of this town. It’s a typical French town, just charming.

Hayley’s at the wheel today and we have a lovely drive through the countryside. After a tight squeeze with a truck at the entrance of St. Julien du Sault, we are in the aire. The French have some strange rules, one of which is priority to the right. Quite simply it’s a bit scary. If you are on the main road sometimes a vehicle can just join from the right and you have to give way! Terrifying sometimes. Hayley was good as usual and there was no incident, we just jumped a little when a car just pulls out in front of us… Whew!

Soon we are in the aire and we park in the exact same spot as we did with our hired van last year. Fantastic.

The aire is almost full of other French campers and a few Germans. We like it here. After we top up we take a walk into the small pretty town. It’s a market town, with lovely little shops and a very smart town hall. French town halls in the main are very nice, called a “Marie” they are quite splendid, dressed with colourful flags and flowers.

We like it here. It’s just how we remember it when we first came.

Here we go. Our first road trip.

WEEK 1: Home to Poperinge, Belgium – 233 miles.

Wednesday 13th June 2018 – Home to Folkstone. 139 miles

A big day today. We have a pile of those blue IKEA bags full to the brim with stuff.

There is a lot of it and it all has to go into Jess the van, we hope. Our first day on the van for our first driving holiday. We have weeks ahead of us and we have no plan. We bring Jess back to the house after staying in the local campsite and stock her up. A few of the neighbours admire her, she does look good in the sunshine, all new and shiny. All of our stuff, clothes, bedding, towels, personal effects, just about fits and the fridge/freezer is jam packed.

Del on the M25 to Folkstone

We are on the 3pm ferry to the mainland. We are off to a campsite in Folkestone, requiring us to take on the M25.

The campsite is located down a very narrow bumpy road, but once in it’s lovely, complete with a view of France. Once settled in we take a short walk to the beach with a bag that has some chilled beers in it. We sit on the beach and drink them in the sun looking at the coast of France in front of us – our next stop.

So far so good. Tomorrow we take the ferry to Calais.


Thursday 14th June 2018 – Folkestone to Stal’ t Bardehof, Poperinge. Belgium. 53 miles

We had rain overnight, heavy, constant rain. It has rained almost every day so far since we picked Jess up from Edwards Motorhomes in Worcester. Every night we have had rain. It’s been a running theme so far. It’s windy and generally a foul start for our first crossing over the channel with Jess. We have breakfast in the van, clean up and we set off for the Port of Dover. France here we come. We board the ferry and tuck Jess into the belly of the boat.

She looks quite small in there as we walk away and make for the stairs to find somewhere to sit. The crossing is quite lumpy with a large swell.

The sea has calmed a little as we enter the Port of Calais, however once we rejoin Jess and set off, the sat nav has decided not to work, so unaided we have to make our way off the ferry, through the port and into France with all of the trucks bearing down on us.

After 45 minutes we cross the border or at least we think we did. There are no signs or any kind of clue that we have crossed from France to Belgium except for two policemen in a car who just smile and wave at us. Easy. We are in Belgium and making our way to a farm called Stal’ t Bardehof in the Belgian town of Poperinge.

Our first night in Europe with Jess

The roads are getting smaller bumpier. As we approach the farm the camber of the road is so steep that we fear that maybe, just maybe, we might ‘bottom out’. We didn’t have to worry about getting a space at the campsite, there is plenty of room in this rustic working farm. They have all sorts here, horses, ducks and there is a rather meaty sheep standing guard at the entrance to the shower block. The host is very nice and shows us where to pitch our van.

Strong stuff

It’s a short walk to a Trappist Monk Abbey but it’s shut so we take a stroll back stopping at a local bar for a couple of Belgian beers. Well, when in Rome. We have a Westmalle Trappist beer which is 10% proof and we can feel that 10% in our legs as we walk back to the farm and Jess just in time for dinner and another couple of beers.

We sit outside. The sun has come out. It’s lovely here.


Friday 15th June 2018 – Stal t’ Bardehof, Poperinge. Belgium.

We like it here, its nice. We slept really well and we are ready for a lovely breakfast of scrambled eggs and salmon. The area around here is very flat and very quiet, ideal for biking, so we get the bikes off the back of Jess for the first time and set off for the nearby abbey hoping that it will be open today. The Abbey is regarded internationally as brewing the best beer in the world. The abbey is called Saint Sixtus Abbey, so we set off to have a look and to hopefully buy some of this world famous beer. It’s closed on a Friday. Guess what? It’s Friday… Shame.

We decide to try and cycle to the town of Poperinge and on the way we stop for a drink from a very Japanese-style vending machine cafe, that just sells everything and almost anything. ‘Sandi’s Vending Corner‘ was a good stop for a drink before carrying on with our bike ride to Poperinge. It’s further than we thought so we give up. It’s hard work.

We get back to Jess and roll out the awning for the first time and spend a lovely, lazy afternoon planning the rest of our trip. Hayley knocks up a massive and tasty paella.

Best paella outside of Spain

We sit outside until 10 pm and play chess. We have daylight here until quite late.

Another great day, even if the abbey was shut. Again.

© 2024 vantours.co.uk

Theme by Anders NorĂ©nUp ↑